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    Somehow, nonstop smoking and coffee-swilling suit the Tokyo lifestyle, which is relentless in its drive to go places and get things done and adheres to the precise timetables of the city's infallible train system. Boozing is the primary form of recreation, especially for the huge percentage of Tokyoites who make their living as office workers of one sort or another. (Beer and sake are also sold in vending machines, though Tokyo ordinance requires the machines to stand adjacent to liquor stores and shut down when the stores do.)

    While Tokyo is the ultimate get-anything-you-want city in every respect, alcoholically speaking there are just four drinks that mean anything: beer, whiskey and water, sake and shochu (basically a Japanese vodka, usually consumed as "chuhai," that is, vodka tonic). The Japanese make all of them well (though Johnnie Walker Black is the most prized whiskey). Perhaps the one alcoholic beverage Japan has yet to manufacture with much skill is wine. While Tokyo is growing incrementally more attuned to the most refined of libations, with the better department stores adding decent cellars of usually overpriced imports, this remains a very un-winey metropolis. Perhaps the atmosphere of contemplation, conversation and relaxation that surrounds a good wine just doesn't mesh with Tokyo's neon-charged psychescape.

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